beyond the lightwind board
So I started kiting this summer, with a Spleene Door 160 and a 12m Ozone Catalyst. The kite and board were chosen for both quality and easing my learning curve. I'm 6'5, just under 200 lbs and love the gear I got. I've progressed enough this summer to recognize how forgiving that board is when I'm sloppy with my technique, and how it can keep planing at lower speed.
Last Friday afternoon at Dog beach was gusty and choppy, probably 25+ and I was overpowered on the 12m / 160. It got me thinking about a board in the 130 range. Talking with Sam and Adam on the beach I realized the board I have is called a lightwind board for a reason, and my gear buying is not finished yet.
Thoughts, recommendations or offers on more nimble boards are welcome.
Hey,
I've got a 132 Criminal kiteboard for sale. If you're interested shoot me an email at: ilya.josefson@gmail.com
probably everyone will give you a different answer, and most have more experience than me So take that into consideration when reading this .
I was recently in the same stage as you and I did an unhealthy amount of research. I ended up getting a custom built board because I heard many great things and the price was about the same as a mass-produced board.
check out Rogue Wave kiteboards: http://www.roguewaveboards.com/
I am very happy with the board Lee (the shaper) made for me and feel like I am progressing rapidly . You can call and speak with Lee directly and tell him your height/weight, the type of riding you are into, and the conditions you will be experiencing. he was a shaper for Jimmy Lewis for many years.
The board that I got is very similar to a Jimmy Lewis model III. It's 135x39 (im 6'1"/195lbs) and I asked for a board that would work well for freeriding when I am fully powered up. I wanted something that would handle chop well.
or you could just get a jimmy lewis model 3 and be done with it.
The Model 3 is a very nice smooth ride and would be a good choice, I would also consider:
North Jaime Pro 132, North X-Ride 136,Cabrinha Caliber 133 all excellent boards.
If you want to try them out let me know! this way you can get a feel for what you want
Philip
Dude me too. I'm only 165 lbs so its even worse. I'm debating just sticking with the Door for the rest of the season or getting a smaller board.
I've tried a lot of different boards. Most of the freestyle boards I've tried stink in the chop and splash up in my face a ton. I keep coming back to my Jimmy Lewis Model 3 in a 139 and I abosolutely love it. It's a great all conditions board - flats, waves, chop, jumping, etc. Jimmy claims that "Humbly stated, this is the greatest board of all time." http://redefineyourride.com/products/productdetail/MODEL%3Cbr%3E3/part_n...? You can pick up last year's model for $200 off MSRP directly from his website.
I'm riding a 2008, Blue Nobile 555 134. I think they call it the T5 now. I absolutely love it with my limited experience in hi performance boards. But every time I let someone try I get the same response... "Damn that thing goes upwind well."
http://www.nobilekiteboarding.com/#/board-t5
Here is a nice price on a brand new 2009, 128 cm on EBAY $399
http://cgi.ebay.com/2009-Nobile-T5-Kiteboard-128X39-FINAL-CLOSEOUT-/3204...
Brian,
Kite boards have gotten so specific over the years that I have been kiting that there is niche for every preference. Preference is the key word you should keep in mind. At this point you know you have a light wind board. Keep that don't sell it but ask yourself what you want to do in kiting next. You've learned how to ride, you can go upwind, you can transition alright. Now you probably want to start learning some basic tricks like jumps and rolls and so you will need a performance board. This type of board can be defined as a small 128-140cm range. Width varies with size but generally the width in a 40-44cm is sufficient. Another characteristic is rocker, that is the curve of the board from the center to the tips. Too much and you'll need a lot of speed to plane, a flat board will be hard on your knees and difficult in chop and waves and it will feel a lot like your light wind board too much. A slight rocker or progressive is just about right for doing most tricks. A progressive rocker is a common characteristic of a performance board. It is somewhat flat in the center and has a slight curve towards the tips but not much. Second characteristic of a performance board is flex, which is exactly as it sounds how much your board flexxes under pressure. More flex means more pop for jumps and better upwind performance in the chop and flat water conditions. It also allows for better carving and turns. It is also much better for your knees and prevents sliding during transitions and turns, reduces the "skatey feeling" of loosing grip in choppy conditions. You may have heard the term progressice flex tips. Another part important part of a performance board is flat vs concave which is the horizontal curve at the center of the board to the top and bottom. In my experience this is a preference thing. It works on some boards like the Ocean Rodeo Mako but on other boards it's added benefit is too scarce to notice much of anything although it feels a lot smoother ride. The last and important characteristic of a performance board is is construction and weight. Materials play a big part of a performance board. What's the core made of divincel or wood, what's the overlay made of? S-glass or carbon fiber. Although carbon fiber is lightweight it is known for being stiff and a carbon board reduces flex. Boards like this may be hard on your knees and I think are very specific materials in board design. S-glass which is what most companies use offer the best of both worlds, stregth and flex and reduced weight from just plain fiber glass. Another characteristic of a board is also the thickness and rails. The thickness will obviously affect weight but the rails should be relatively thin or progressive stage thickness. My board's rails are about an 1/8th of an inch all around. The rail is basically like a fin.
Bindings ie foot pads and straps you really don't have much choice other than what comes with the board but you can upgrade to differt companies bindings.
So think about those things when choosing your next board. I can talk a lot more about board characteristics but the thread will be too long. Best thing to do is to talk with your local retailer about what you want from a board then ask other kiters and of course demo a board if possible.
At 200lbs, the wind would have to be really honking for you to ride a 128. Personally I'd look for something in the high 130s / low 140s if this is going to be your all around board.
Small boards generally need more wind and skill to ride especially a 128 of course that is usually the womens side to ride. 130-140 depending on weight. I'm 265lbs and I ride a 136x40 and have a 140x43 as light wind board and for teaching. At 200lbs a 134 with width of 40 and above should be fine.
or go home.
-Skrocket
Spoken like a true strapless sensei.
I have an 150 cm OR Mako and think its great. It looks kind of funny but it really is the ultimate do it all board. Great in chop, Light enough to allow you to do some basic tricks, transitions very easily and tracks upwind well.
I am in the middle of my second season so I too am still a bit of a beginner.
Metal ones work the best, my door's oak though cuz the metal ones are expensive......just make sure you remove the knob.













I keep hearing great things about that board. Thanks for the tip on the '09 boards.